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Engine swap

risdog

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"Hey guys, its me again. My en

"Hey guys, its me again. My engine is due to arrive tomorrow! I went onto SELOC to get any information about the swap that I could. I have ran into one possible issue already. It is calling for an alignment tool to be used before mounting the out drive back to the transom. Where might I be able to find said alignment tool and or instructions on how to use it?

I also read this at SELOC:
If the stern drive was not removed, the installation procedure may be continued without aligning the engine, because the engine mount height was undisturbed. However, if the vertical drive was removed, engine alignment is essential to prolong drive-train life.

Does anyone think that this will be possible to do or does it usually require removing the outdrive?"
 
I have done one without removi

I have done one without removing the drive. You need to be careful to assure your engine mount configuration is exactly the same. Mark everything before removing mounts.
 
"Since I will be swapping the

"Since I will be swapping the engine coupler as well, do I still get the same treatment of not needing to align if I don't remove the vertical drive."
 
"You may be able to borrow an

"You may be able to borrow an alignment tool from your local friendly boat shop. Or they can be rented.
I think you would be well advised to get one and set your alignment properly. Its a good tool to have around, and not expensive. sierra and GLM both make them.

Rod"
 
SELOC calls for the following

SELOC calls for the following part numbers as Alignment Shafts:
#C-91-48247
#C-91-57797A3

Who makes these part numbers and or where would they be available online?
 
"Try mercstuff.com , great sit

"Try mercstuff.com , great site for outdrive parts."
 
"Rod,

Thank you very much.


"Rod,

Thank you very much. The price of the tool was $105 at one of the local shops and I was able to "borrow" it for a $105 security deposit. Back in business for tomorrow!"
 
"Is there anything about the 3

"Is there anything about the 3.0 swap that would be of useful information. I am looking mainly for one of those "damn, I will remember to do it THAT way next time", or "why didn't I do that first".

I am just getting a little anxious. I have printed the guides from SELOC on the engine removal and installation as well as the same for the flywheel and coupler. Any thing that you guys can think of is freely welcomed."
 
only useful tip coming to mind

only useful tip coming to mind: check the flapper in the exhaust while the engine is out...
 
"Thanks,
Flapper is on order


"Thanks,
Flapper is on order and will arrive tomorrow. That is what lead me to this situation.
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"
 
"buy number 2, 8 and 9 and do

"buy number 2, 8 and 9 and do it right (as it sounds like you are). Drain the oil from the drive first (at the bottom). Use a little white grease to hold the small oring in place while you re-attach the drive. Make sure all gasket surfaces are clean before assembling.

Also - now is the time to replace the drive and exhaust bellows if they are at all suspect.

Don't forget to grease all the fittings with marine grease.

The drive refills with oil from the bottom - until oil comes out the top (the vent hole on the side of the uppper housing). Use marine gear oil. let us know if you have questions about "how to get oil up hill into the drive"."
 
"Thank you MistaHays,

Just


"Thank you MistaHays,

Just got back from same shop that had the tool that I needed. Man, this is a small mom and pop shop that has it all! He told sold me the entire gasket kit with the pieces that you also recommended. I was also able to pick up a new impeller kit. Why put in a new engine that might not be getting the cooling that it needs? The drive and the exhaust bellows are the rubber pieces that attach from the out drive to the transom? I will check those as we do this. Maybe he will have those instock as well if the are suspect.

Now on to draining the drive oil. This is the first I have heard of this one. Can you specify what oil I need/should use (brand name and weight preferably). Something told me to get a grease gun and a tube of marine grease. DAMN!

I can tell you now that I am going to have questions on how to get oil up hill into the drive. Can you please go ahead and explain this for me?

I have also set up an appointment with the mechanic to have the boat looked at next week. he is going to address the fuel gauge, bulge pump and look over my work for any mistakes.

Thank you again for the advise MistaHays!"
 
Dave:

Buy the engine oil re


Dave:

Buy the engine oil remote drain kit. It's a hose you pull out of the bilge drain and drain your oil. You'll be glad you did.
 
"Guy,

Hopefully this is som


"Guy,

Hopefully this is something that can be done later? I just got back from the shop (1:15) round trip after going yesterday. Maybe I can make a drain pan the first time with a hose that comes out the bilge drain and then install said kit?"
 
"Good work, Dave.

I just u


"Good work, Dave.

I just use Pensoil marine gear oil (80/90 weight). As long as it specifies "marine". Mercruiser and or Quicksilver make (package) some as well.

I made a tool to put oil in the drive. I'll see if i can find the pic i posted a while ago. Others are going to have ideas here as well. Cheers."
 
"Well guys, old engine out and

"Well guys, old engine out and new one in. Reinstalling the out drive was a pain in my @$$. I really hope all is well with it. It was full of milk when I drained it empty. Also, the fuel pump will not switch over with the digital distributor that it on the new engine. I am going back to the shop tomorrow to see if there is an electric fuel pump option. Any ideas with the pump? Need to add oil, get the fuel pump resolved and tighten up the water pump pulley and the alternator and it should be ready to fire up! Thanks again for all the help in the past and for the help I am going to be sure to ask for in the future!"
 
Dave;
You can use an electric


Dave;
You can use an electric fuel pump pretty easily.
There may be one that is used with the later model 3.0 engines. Or you could likely use one for a 4.3. They are an inline type pump and pretty easy to plumb in.
Put it between your water separating filter and the carb.

You will have to wire it into a convenient purple wire in the engine harness. The purple wires are hot when the ignition key is on.

Rod
 
"[b]"You will have to wire

""You will have to wire it into a convenient purple wire in the engine harness. The purple wires are hot when the ignition key is on."

Ayuh,...

And the Power feed HAS to be run Thru an Oil Pressure Switch.....

Safety 1st Guys....."
 
"Just got back from the shop,

"Just got back from the shop, AGAIN! Told the mechanic the situation. Since it is the Fuel/Water sep. that is hitting the distributor, he lead me to NAPA for a standard mechanical fuel pump and then sold me an in-line fuel/water sep. I am going to see if we can make this work so that the lake wont be lonely without me tomorrow."
 
"Hope you have a fuel pump pus

"Hope you have a fuel pump pushrod and the mounting plate that goes on the block. Is this an EFI block, if so it may not even have a mounting boss on the block for a pump."
 
Just ran into another kink in

Just ran into another kink in my plan. I was fitting the new fuel pump to find that the fittings didn't match the old one. My local hydraulic shop was able to sell me 2 pieces of line with the needed fittings. One I think is going to be too short and the other is going to be wayyy long.

Does anyone know of any possible problems that may come from having too much fuel line between the pump and carb?
 
Take the old off and install o

Take the old off and install on the new pump. Put your finger tip on the pump push rod and have someone click the starter a little until you can push the rod inward as it is passed by the cam lobe.
 
"All is well, or so I think. J

"All is well, or so I think. Just got home, finished the swap. Engine is running very smoothly. I am going to take it out for a nice easy day on the lake tomorrow. I want to go ahead and get those 20 hours done with!

Thanks for all the help again guys!
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"
 
"Dave, about your oil being mi

"Dave, about your oil being milky when you drained it. You might want to keep an eye on that.You should chould check it after each few runs, it sounds like you may have to change some seals in the OD."
 
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