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Volvo 30 overheated what can I expect to replace

M

m. schickler

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"Found a sand bar on the Wisco

"Found a sand bar on the Wisconsin River at low speed. Trimmed up, shut down, and looked for damage, none found. Continued on our way, ignoring temp gauge until smoke came out of the bilge. (didn't say I was smart or had any boating experience). Shut down and paddled to shore. Must have shredded the raw water impeller with sand. Visible damage is charred paint on the exhaust riser, melted bellows and the exhaust high temp sensor melted off the riser. Exhaust manifold also appears to be cracked.

Here's the question. What more can I expect to be damaged? Is it likely terminal for this engine? Any concerns with outdrive?"
 
"First, I would check the cond

"First, I would check the condition of the oil: if it has water or metal on it, that's a very bad sign. If OK, run a compression test and see what you get. If OK, you may be lucky and all the damage may be limited to some burnt paint and an exhaust bellows. If not, you may be looking for a new short or long block at worst.

Hopefully, the outdrive will be OK. Drain the oil and have a look; if OK (no water or discoloured), that would be a good sign. In case of doubt, you can also run a pressure/vacuum test."
 
"Thanks for the insights. I&#

"Thanks for the insights. I've actually filed an insurance claim, but my agent (Allstate) had no idea if this type of thing is covered. Anyone have any experience filing a claim for overheating due to hitting a sandbar?"
 
"Follow-up question. Dealer i

"Follow-up question. Dealer is estimating a replacement of everything from the top of the manifold to the transom, including all gaskets (of course) but also the riser & exhaust pipe. Any reason these steel components need replacing? I have little faith in the service dept.(Duchows Boat Center, Fox Lake, IL) They did not perform a compression check, they did not notice the outdrive exhaust bellows is brittle & cracked, and they did not indicate an oil change was needed. 12 hours of labor to replace these components seems excessive too."
 
"If the exhaust manifolds/rise

"If the exhaust manifolds/risers are cracked, they need to be replaced. Same if they are old and corroded. Also, it may be difficult to remove all the sand and sediment from them.

When it comes to the exhaust pipe, I believe it is made in aluminum, and unless it is severely corroded or melted, I don't see in principle a reason to replace it.

What year and model is your engine anyway?

When it comes to repairs, you may want to have an open and honest discussion with the shop about your concerns prior to signing the work order."
 
"See that's just it, I thi

"See that's just it, I think the manifold is cracked, but I'm not sure they carefully examined the engine.

Its a 2006 with 50 hrs on it, everything is spotless. I can see a fine "crack" in the casting and rust stains along the block under it. Could just be a casting mark, but I don't think so.

When I dropped the boat off, I asked the service manager if they would do any diagnostic testing , like a compression test. He explained how experienced the techs were and that they would know what to fix. I think he's full of it, you've given me better answers here.

The service order says "This is not pulling the head to check for a bad head gasket or bad head". He knows I want it done right, he knows its an insurance job, I'm not sure he knows what's right."
 
"Run Away..Run Away !!!! If I

"Run Away..Run Away !!!! If I were you, I'd find another shop.. Re: "This is not pulling the head to CHECK FOR A BAD GASKET..." This is total BS! 95% of the time, Pulling the head DESTROYS the head gasket! The procedure... Check Compression, Check for water in the engine oil, if OK heads and gasket probably OK. Anyone who even thinks that they can give you a list of everything that needs replaced before they take engine at least partially apart is BSing you."
 
"El, thanks again. Well I spo

"El, thanks again. Well I spoke with the service manager and my confidence has not been boosted in the least. Flat out told me, "I don't get in the boats anymore." WTF is that. Regarding a compression test. "Tech's don't want to turn the engine over until they replace the bad parts." All bad parts identified in the order are all exhaust side,the risk of doing more damage is no different before or after, in my opinion. I did finally convince a tech that the rust stripe on an otherwise spotless engine is from the<u> visible crack in the manifold.</u>

Anyone know a quality VP service dept near Northern IL 60046?
cooked riser
193696.jpg
cooked riser"">
cracked manifold
193697.jpg
cracked
 
"I did pretty much the same th

"I did pretty much the same thing to my engine. I replaced the bellows and gaskets on the exhaust side but I think there is more trouble. The engine oil is milky and the engine is progressively harder to start. Am I cooked? What is the next step? Run a cold compression and leak down test? If bad, pull the head, give it a magflux test. How would I know if the block is cracked onther than by a visual test?
Thx for any help.
Bear"
 
Milky oil means water is getti

Milky oil means water is getting in somehow. Suspect head gasket or cracked water jacket. Hopefully El will check in & give you sage advice.

What engine & how hot & for how long? I ask to help me understand if I am likely to suffer the same fate.
 
"The fact that they won't

"The fact that they won't do a compression check is B$ IMO. Maybe because this is an insurance claim they want to replace everything that can be bad to make sure it is good as new. In this case a compression check may not be required because you are getting a new engine anyways. Which is in your best interest anyways.

If I was paying for this service, I would demand a compression check before one replaces an engine.

Good luck and have a great day,

Rob."
 
"M. It was running at about 22

"M. It was running at about 220 degree and I ran for about 10min to get back to shore. Would have stopped but, it was late and I was on a big lake. I'm taking the boat to the local mechanic to do a compression test. I think the 3.0 is basically a GM Iron Duke so hopefully he's able to help me figure out what's wrong. Ugh!"
 
"A friend of mine has this eng

"A friend of mine has this engine in his larson, it overheated well, but probably not as bad as yours as there was no charred paint on the riser.
It became a pain to start and wouldnt run right afterwards. I removed the manifold and riser and the cyl head and had them all pressure tested. Both the riser and the manifold were cracked badly, luckily the head was ok crack wise. It had a slight warp so the machine shop skimmed it flat. There was visible compression breach between cyl 2 and 3 on the head gasket so i believe this is the main starting problem. Still waiting for the manifold and riser to arrive, dealer estimates early September!
I think if it overheated that bad its essential that the head is removed as these engines dont appear to recover well from overheating.
Good luck with yours.
Paul"
 
"Paul & Barry, Thanks a bu

"Paul & Barry, Thanks a bunch for relating similar experiences. I'm convinced that Duchow's is not the service dept for this problem. I think they would rather do the minimum to fix it and expect me to keep coming back as more issues arise.

Allstate Ins didn't care for the service write-up as well, Adjuster said it was too open ended. They are sending a surveyor out. By the way, they consider this covered by my policy."
 
"Paul, Thx for the feedback. C

"Paul, Thx for the feedback. Can the head be pressure tested off the engine, didn't know that? Would it be better to cold test the compression before I pull the head? Where do I take the manifold, riser and head for the test? Can any automotive machine shop do it? How about the block, can something be done, other than visual inspection, with the engine still in the boat. Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get educated before ripping-up the engine.
Thx, Bear"
 
"Mike, its a bonus if the insu

"Mike, its a bonus if the insurance will cover this, things like this get expensive very quickly.
Barry, Any decent auto-machine shop will be more than willing to do a pressure test, but a head orientated shop will probably be more co-operative. If you havent done a compression test yet, i would do one before disassembly. At least you can be suspect of a particular cyl with low compression. With the block, check it as best you can with a good straight edge and inspect it carefully for cracks or damage to pistons etc.
Good luck"
 
"Paul, I don't want to try

"Paul, I don't want to try to start the engine. Can a compression test be done cold (by just turning the engine by hand). Not really up to speed with this stuff"
 
"Barry,
To carry out a compr

"Barry,
To carry out a compression test, remove all 4 plugs, remove the king lead (lead from the coil to the centre of the distributer cap). If you have a fuel tap, turn the fuel off. If you havent just make sure the engine space is well ventalated. Then do a test by putting the compression tester in each plug hole, crank the engine until the gauge stops increasing. Record all the results. If you have a low reading on 1 or more cyl, you can eliminate piston rings by putting a few squirts of oil down the hole then repeating the test. If the pressure improves by a substantial amount, then its most likely rings, if not valves or head gasket.
Post up the results
Good luck"
 
"OK gang, Here's the lates

"OK gang, Here's the latest.
The dealer who had my boat turned away the surveyor sent by the insurance company. I finally told the service manager I'd be taking my boat home, unrepaired. He bitched and wanted money for his diagnosis time, etc.

Anyway, now I've got the boat. I bought the Seloc manual & perfromed a compression test. All cyl tested fine: 142, 158, 158, 145. No water in the engine oil. By my estimate I need the manifold, bellows & all gaskets replaced on the exhaust, plus a raw water impeller kit. Total parts is <$700. Am I foolish to take this on myself? Any pitfalls to watch out for? I've serviced my '62 Healey for years with good luck...."
 
"Mike,
Just my two cents wo

"Mike,
Just my two cents worth.
No your not foolish to take it on yourself.
That service outfit at Duchows Boat Center, Fox Lake did not impress me from day one either.
How did the oil look? To me, an 06 with 50 hrs. should look clean with no water or any other contaminants.
Not to be a kill joy here and this is NOT to say your overheat problem has gone to this extent. An overheated engine can check acceptable as far as compression and there still be possibility of a cracked ring or piston. It is also possible for an oil ring to sieze up due to overheating and cause a cylinder to smoke later.
If you pull the head make sure you carefully inspect the piston tops, as much of the top rings as possible, and the cylinder walls for signs of scuffing throughout the stroke before reassembly.
Also, get the digital camera out and take lots of pictures before teardown.
Good Luck,
DS"
 
"Dave,
Thanks for the reply.

"Dave,
Thanks for the reply. Is there any service department you like in the area? BBB has Bald Knob as satisfactory, all others unsatisfactory.

I'm willing to take it on myself, but normally my projects are old cars with nothing to lose. I hate to chance the expense of an engine overhaul, covered by insurance? just because I'm frustrated with my dealer. Ex dealer, I won't be back there...."
 
"I am a fairly handy type and

"I am a fairly handy type and if my repair was going to be covered by insurance, I would not even get my hands dirty."
 
"Mike,
Has your claim adju

"Mike,
Has your claim adjuster looked at the damage? Is that covered under collision or what?
This is my 1st I/O so I'm a bit vulnerable to the shops myself. This is the reason I watch this board. I can't say I'm any expert but I've done some work with outboards and more so in the automotive field. When I talk to a service writer/manager or mechanic I feel I have a good idea on weather they know something or not. I'd suggest getting out and discussing your situation with a couple other shops to get a feel, including Bald Knob. Also question them about insurance claims and adjuster estimates. I believe El mentions this in his earlier response.
Other than that, if I have a service manual and the proper tools or can obtain them, and its out of warranty, I would not have problem digging in.
DS"
 
"OK, I'm about to start th

"OK, I'm about to start the compression test. Can I do it by cranking the engine by hand. It really started very hard last time I tried to start the engine. Also, given the oil is milky, should I just go ahead and pull the head, have it magnafluxed and reconditioned (if not cracked), and visually inspect the block for cracks, check the piston rings, check the piston walls, etc? I assume I should pull the manifold and do the same?
Thanks,
Bear"
 
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