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Shift Cable Bellows

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yeoman100

New member
"Hello again,
Afte

"Hello again,
After many questions and loads of great help I have managed my first Gimbal bearing and complete rubber change on my 1991 mercruiser 3.0. Now that I am putting it back together I went to crimp on the shift bellows, I checked the book and it states to crimp it directly behind the bell housing lock nut. I can not see how I can do this as I have fitted the other rubber and secured the bell housing.

Is there a way to get at it or can i crimp to the cable a few inches away from the bell housing?"
 
"It should be crimped about th

"It should be crimped about the shift cable in a location that allows the lower unit to reach trailer position withour putting undue stretch on the bellows. Thus when OD unit is in lowered position, the bellows should be slightly compressed from its natural length. Remember the shift cable bellows is the most fragile of the three bellows involved, and also gets the most work. Mine is crimped about the shift cable approximately 3.5 inches (from my memory, not measure) from the transom mount.
Crimping the bellows was the last activity I did in that task, so it can easily be crimped with everything else buttoned up."
 
i just did this too and my sel

i just did this too and my seloc manual says that you are supposed to crimp the bellows end 2"(alpha 1) from the locking nut on the back of the bell housing. Make sure that you use a crimping tool that will compress the ring but not crease it. I was able to borrow a merciful marina's crimper. They had fashioned them as instructed in the seloc manual. After crimping mash the bell housing all the way up and all the way down to make sure that the stress on the bellows is not to bad. The clip can be loosened and the then re tightened. I cursed that damn exhaust bellows for 2+ hours. I hope yours went easier.

--chris
 
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