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Marine Battery

clueless

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"Hi all-
I have a battery tha


"Hi all-
I have a battery that quit on me. I've heard both pro and con arguements for marine type batteries vs. standard automotive type. I use my boat for ski type activities, not for running a trolling motor or anything like that. Comments please.
Thanks!"
 
Don't waste your money on

Don't waste your money on a deep cylce battery.
You need a cranking battery. A group 24 or 27 will do just fine.
 
"Most recommend a marine rated

"Most recommend a marine rated battery.
I read somewhere that they are built with more robust plates due to the pounding and vibration service; but that could be just marketing hype. Marine batteries don't seem to cost any more than automotive anyway.

From my experience, if your boat battery has 3 or more years on it, you are on borrowed time.

Rod"
 
"As far as what makes a lead-a

"As far as what makes a lead-acid battery a lead-acid battery, there's not much difference between marine/RV and automotive. Marine/RV batteries do have extra terminal posts with wings nuts to connect the loads (bilge pumps) that are not connected through the battery disconnect switch.
There is a significant difference between deep cycle and starting batteries.
Starting batteries have a relatively high CCA ratings, but don't last very long under continuous discharge.
Deep cycle batteries have a relatively low CCA rating but last much longer under continuous discharge, but they need the deep (complete discharge before charging) cycle to stay healthy.

From what you've said, sounds like you want a starting battery. The most Cold Cranking Amps (CCA) per dollar is where you'll get the most value.
There isn't a significant difference in price between a marine battery and an automotive battery of the same size group. Take a look at sears.com. You can get an feel for the prices there."
 
"I'd read that marine batt

"I'd read that marine batteries are actually hybrids ... not really deep cycle but not just plain cranking batteries either. Cranking batteries aren't meant to be run below 80% capacity... a marine battery is designed to be drained as low as 50% while a deep cycle battery down to 20%.

The deep cycle battery has very thick plates because they're not meant to provide huge amounts of power at once like a cranking battery. The cranking battery has very thin plates, thus exposing more surface area to the acid.

the difference between a car and a boat is that the car draws virtually no power when it's not running.

In a boat, on the other hand, the battery CAN get quite a bit of use while sitting in the water. Blasting the radio, running the lights (if you're in the water at night with the engine off), operating an automatic bilge pump, etc.

You definately don't need a true deep cycle battery, but the choice between a marine battery and a plain ol' automotive cranking battery is yours to make based on your boat usage."
 
"Here is my 2 cents;

What


"Here is my 2 cents;

What the boys have said is gospel. Most important for any cranking battery is "RESERVE CAPACITY IN MINUTES" (RC). A battery can be rated at 1,000 CCA w/only 50 RC Minutes which is not really worth beans because doesn't have a good RESERVE CAPACITY.

(CCA) is the maximum amperes that can be continuously removed from a battery for 30 seconds at 0°F before its voltage drops to unusable levels. A 550 CCA battery can supply 550 amperes for 30 seconds at 0°F and 650 amperes for 30 seconds at 32°F. Look for a battery with at least 525 CCA @ 0°F and 80 min. RC or higher.

Reserve capacity is the number of minutes a battery can maintain a useful voltage under a 25 ampere discharge. The higher the minute rating, the greater the battery's ability to run lights, pumps, inverters, and electronics for a longer period before recharging is necessary. The 25 Amp. Reserve Capacity Rating is more realistic than Amp-Hour or CCA as a measurement of capacity for service. Batteries promoted on their high Cold Cranking Ratings are easy and inexpensive to build. The market is flooded with them, however their Reserve Capacity, Cycle Life (the number of discharges and charges the battery can deliver) and Service life are poor. Reserve Capacity is difficult and costly to engineer into a battery and requires higher quality cell materials."
 
"Troy:

Thanks, but I must a


"Troy:

Thanks, but I must admit that I plagarized 2nd and 3rd para. of it; just wanted to get the point across clearly."
 
"That's a pretty popular s

"That's a pretty popular setup for offshore, one for cranking, one for running loads while on the fishing grounds, drifting.
Charge both on the way out.
Switch to the deep cycle while fishing. (very important step else... two dead bateries.)
Switch to cranking battery to start and come back home, charging both, or some folks pull the deep cycle and charge it at home on a slow charger."
 
"Important; turn everything of

"Important; turn everything off before switching batteries.

It's a full moon; I am going walleye fishing @ 5 a.m. tomorrow morn. I already have a few left in the freezer but need a couple more for a fish fry.
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"
 
"Troy,
I found a pretty good


"Troy,
I found a pretty good schematic online on how to hook up two batteries. I only have one deep cycle on my boat plus an emergency jumper unit. My boat is pretty small only a 19' cuddy but I do have room for two batteries. I also have a brand new extra 850cca car battery in my basement. Is there anything else to add to a two battery system besides 2 batteries and a switch? Is it worth all the hassle on a boat my size?"
 
"If you plan on charging both

"If you plan on charging both batteries at the same time from the alternator, they need an electronic ISOLATOR. Otherwise, the alternator will only charge the active battery if the switch is between the alt. and batts.

I would wire the alt. to the isolator and the isol. to each battery and each batt. to the switch then the switch to the starter. The trim pump only needs connected to one battery."
 
"PS:

I wouldn't try to


"PS:

I wouldn't try to charge 2 batteries w/it at the same time due to the w/c regulator...$400. But, if it blows, then you can put a 60 amp standard marine alt. kit in its place for under $200.

Just go from the alt. to the batt. switch then the 2 batteries. You could run w/the start battery and change w/eng. off, to the deep cycle."
 
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