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Bypassing Trim Limit Switch

E

eriefeelin

Member
What is the method for bypassi

What is the method for bypassing these trim limit switches?Do you just disconnect the 2 bullet connectors and join the 2 wires together?
 
"Why? The limit switch is ther

"Why? The limit switch is there to protect the outdrive from being raised too far while it's running. Bad things will happen if it it's too far up.
I know there are folks that have to run in very shallow water and raise the drive to get through the shallows. Which, I think is a bad idea to begin with.
Anyway, the answer to your question is yes, that would be all it would take. However, there is only one limit switch. It's on the port side of the drive. The same hockey-puck looking thing on the starboard side is for the angle indication. I wouldn't disconnect either, but making yourself completely blind of the parameter for which you are overriding a safety device, goes far beyond what the engineers who designed the outdrive would consider stupid."
 
If the engineers would have de

If the engineers would have designed these trim limit switches better to begin with I would not be asking how to bypass them.They are very poorly designed.I'm on my third one and I am tired of replacing them.I don't use the trim much and when I do I never come close to the maximum trim.Thanks.
 
"Joel,
If the engineers had d

"Joel,
If the engineers had designed these better, amongst other components, the spare parts business would become non-existant. They could use a price reduction for certain!!!!

Scott"
 
"You are right Scott.As far as

"You are right Scott.As far as I know these switches are of the same design.In this day and age all we hear about is continuous improvement and if you don't improve somebody will pass you by.Good Boating,Joel"
 
"Ever consider the possibility

"Ever consider the possibility that there is something else wrong, causing the switches to fail?"
 
The problem area is the wires

The problem area is the wires themselves where they enter the switch.I dock the boat and water seems to enter the switch or the wires fray.
 
"How is this done exactly? At

"How is this done exactly? At which location do you connect the wires? Man, this would solve my problem too."
 
"Just disconnect the wires at

"Just disconnect the wires at the trim limit switch,and then connect the wires back together-leaving the trim limit switch disconnected."
 
"My thoughts on Trim Indicator

"My thoughts on Trim Indicators,+ Trim Limits are This,............

They Don't Work, for very long,+ are Not worth the Effort to change them Out..........
Mine are Not only By-passed,.... They're just plain Gone,... I replaced them with Aluminum caps........

Why,...???......
Well,.... Given just alittle bit of Seat Time,.........
I can tell Where the drive is,.........
It Should be a "Seat of the Pants" thing for an operator who's got even a vague idea of How,+ Why a boat responds to commands.......
And,..... I've got Enough Seat Time,.....
I KNOW, Exactly Where My drive Is, at All Times..............

Jim,....
Inside the boat,.. where the forward trim control wires come down to/by the transom Assembly,.. you'll find the Ends of the wires coming from the switches,.. They're connected to the trim harness with 2 bullet connectors each,..... Just unplug them there,+ Reconnect the trim harness Around them...... No cutting or Nothing,.. Just Unplug,+ Replug......"
 
"I agree that the setup of the

"I agree that the setup of the switch and the indicator sender is pretty darn cheezy. In fact the indicator hasn't worked in my boat since the day I bought the boat. It's an indication, like Bondo, I can do without.

It's all a matter of how anal you want to be about making sure things are in good working order, and fully understanding the consequences of deciding what you'll repair and what you won't.

Do you absolutely need the trim indicator or the trim limit switch? Nope... and, for the same reason, you probably don't really need the high temperature or low oil pressure alarms either. But I sure as hell wouldn't diable the oil pressure and temperature gages if the associated alarms didn't work... and vice versa!

Bondo, you're absolutely right.. for a guy that knows what he's doing... all that stuff is either added conveneince and assurance or just plain unecessary junk. For some of folks though, that stuff just might save their ass some day. Unfortunately, we don't get a good idea of what everyone's experience level is when they post their questions."
 
"Thanks. To answer Troy, my e

"Thanks. To answer Troy, my experience is limited. However, I can perform maintenance and minor fix-it's. If I sit and think long enough about how something works and how its put together, I can usually do the fix.
On my boat, ('88 Marlin runabout,3.0) the trim works, but only going DOWN, not UP. Kinda like its out of adjustment. Are they adjustable? I would try that fix before bypassing if possible. There's two simlar places on each side of the outdrive where the wires go in. Which side's are "trim limit" and "trim indicator"? Port or starboard? (same as planes, port is LEFT, right?)Are there gaskets I'd need to replace?
A guy sure can learn alot around here looking at older threads. Thanks for all the great info, and sorry about hi-jacking this thread."
 
"The port is indeed the left s

"The port is indeed the left side,your trim limit switch is also on the port side.The switch is bad thats why it will go down but not up."
 
"James H, does the drive come

"James H, does the drive come up when you push the "trailer" button? If it does, Eriefeelin has this one pegged, if it doesn't, there's something else wrong. I'll e-mail you a diagram."
 
"Yep, trailer button works &#4

"Yep, trailer button works (thank goodness). Thanks for the email. Here's what's weird, when the outdrive is almost all the way up (using the trailer button) the UP TRIM starts working, well beyond where the limit should be. That's why I thought maybe they were adjustable. On the switch, is there quick connectors or do you cut and solder?"
 
"It's either way out of ad

"It's either way out of adjustment or so broke it's making intermitent contact inside. If you loosen the two screws on the switch housing (port side), you can rotate it to adjust it. When all is said and done, the tail rods from the hoist cylinders should be extended 6-1/4" to 6-3/4" from the fully retracted (down) position.
(That's the Alpha 1 spec, I don't remember if we ever established the fact that yours is in fact an Alhpa 1 drive.)"
 
My stern drvie is stuck in the

My stern drvie is stuck in the up position and I cannot lower it. When I press the trim down the motor runs but nothing moves. Any suggestions?. Not sure if it is the trim sensors or the trim motor or the selinoids.
 
"The trim sensor has nothing t

"The trim sensor has nothing to do with a trim pump that cycles but doesn't move anything. If it was a sensor, it wouldn't operate the pump at all. Have you checked the fluid level?"
 
"Fluid level looks good. The

"Fluid level looks good. The pump works, I disconnected the line to both cylinders and fluid pumps through the lines. I then removed one of the cylinders(not sure if this is what it is called) and I cannot move them(compress them
), they seem frozen"
 
"I have a simular problem but

"I have a simular problem but do not get fluid at the lines on the rams when dissconnected, checked the levels and filled it with 20-30 tried again and it still not working. I can pull the drive up a few inches without dissconecting so the rams are free. Seems like it must be the pump? any ideas"
 
Seems the rams were stuck. Go

Seems the rams were stuck. Got up on the stren drive and stood on it a few time and it finally started moving. NOw it goes up and down real slow. IS this due to to the rams needing to be bled?
 
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