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b84 MC 470 Starting Problem

a1nowell

Contributing Member
This engine has not been start

This engine has not been started since 2003. I have gotten it to turnover and it has fire. When I crank on the starter it tries to run. When I let off the key it will die.

Any suggestions?
 
"-Fresh, fully charged battery

"-Fresh, fully charged battery
-Fresh gas
-Compression in all cylinders
-Fresh Ignition components(cap/points/rotor/wires/plugs)
I'm sure others will add, the list will be long
Chris"
 
"With a voltmeter or a test li

"With a voltmeter or a test light, see if there is voltage at the coil just with the switch in the run position. You may have a defective switch. JW in Dixie"
 
"For an engine that has sat th

"For an engine that has sat that long without running, I would be concerned about no oil film on moving parts, particularly bearings and cam/lifters.

The best move would be to pull the distributor and use an electric drill to run the oil pump to get fresh oil to all the bearings. Since I have no personal 470 experience I am not sure of just how this is done with this engine. Its a pretty easy job on the GM V-6's and V-8's.

Failing this, I would pull the plugs and disconnect the coil, then crank the engine on the starter until you get oil pressure on the gauge. This may take 20-30 seconds. You should be able to get 10-15 psig pressure. This will assure you have fresh oil to most metal to metal surfaces before startup.

Hopefully the oil was changed before it was laid up in 2003? If the oil is old and dirty there is a good chance that the weak acids in the oil may have etched the soft babbit surfaces of your main and rod bearings. You would have no way to know this without a teardown, so just hope for the best.

If it is balky at starting, you can pour a small amount of gas down the carb throats just before hitting the key. We are talking a thimble full or two; not more than that.

Though done all the time, this is kind of risky business, not for the faint of heart. Do it outside, and don't be standing over the carb looking into it while trying to start it. It may backfire and things will get warm quickly.

Have someone standing by with a fire extinguisher, and send the curious neighbor with the lit cigarette home.

Rod"
 
"Larry
Don't know if this


"Larry
Don't know if this engine has an Ignition Ballast Resistor. If it does, it sounds like the classic symptom of the resistor being open.
Bert"
 
"Bert: you read my mind! Guy

"Bert: you read my mind! Guy
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"
 
"Bert,
The distributor has be


"Bert,
The distributor has been converted from points & condenser to an ignition module. Is this where I can find the resistors?"
 
"The "resistor wire" i

"The "resistor wire" is built into the wiring harness.
First, with the key to "On" is there voltage at the + side of the coil with the points open?remove wire from coil if necessary to read.could also be just a bad ign. switch. do the gauges work with the key in the "On" position.Check the main harness plug at the engine for corrosion and the clamp ."
 
I know I'll get lambasted

I know I'll get lambasted for this but:

The most problems I have had with my 470 engine have been fuel delivery. First squirt some starting fluid down the carb and see if it will start and run at all. If it does this tells you it's a fuel delivery problem. If so then you need to start dismantelling and cleaning out the fuel line starting at the carb. Your gas is old and if there was any left in the carb you may be in for a rebuild. Also there is a tiny fuel filter with a check valve where the fuel line goes into the carb. I have had trouble with this and finally changed it out for an auto one without the check valve. I installed a Racor fuel/ water seperator filter before the pump so found no need for this type of extra tiny filter that sticks closed all the time anyway.

At least this will tell you one way or the other if your problems are fuel related or not.

Also since your distributor was converted to electronic module the problems aren't points and condensor related either so process of elimination is rolling along.
 
"Larry Whitehead
The (re


"Larry Whitehead
The (resistor) or wire could still be in the circuit, even though the points were removed and an electronic system installed. By looking at several wiring diagrams, the resistor (wire) is Purple, No 5 from the plug. It takes it's feed off the Electric Choke wire. If that wire is open then the feed to the coil will be affected when the key is released to the run position.
Bert"
 
"Bert,
I replaced the ignitio


"Bert,
I replaced the ignition switch but I have the same problem. I suspect it is this open resister you suggested. The positive on the coil has no power when the key is in the on position. I ran a jumper wire from the positive battery post to the positive post on the coil. That baby started right up and I ran the engine for about ten minutes. How do I track down this open resistor?"
 
"Larry Whitehead
You should


"Larry Whitehead
You should get a wiring diagram and use that as an assist to track the wires. Other than that get a meter or a trouble light and with the ignition on, trace back the wires from the coil+ until you hit power. In between that point and the coil will be your problem.
Bert"
 
Larry:

Do as Bert says. Th


Larry:

Do as Bert says. The manual shows a purple resistance wire is used in lieu of a ballast resistor unless it was changed. The wire runs between the + coil terminal and the elec. choke. Do you know what a ballast resistor looks like? It is usually a 2"-3" long rectangle w/a 3/8" diameter and tan in color. It will be mounted near the dist. coil because it produces alot of heat and needs air to cool it. The resistor wire just gets VERY warm/hot to touch.
 
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