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Lubing help

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terrapin24h

Contributing Member
"Guys--
As you can probabl

"Guys--
As you can probably tell by a few of my posts, i'm newish to boat ownership. I browse the threads here and try garner some intelligence from the conversations had by those far superior in knowledge than myself. I have two questions today, as i am going into my first full season with my 1998 starcraft 1810GT 4.3L... Here goes:

1. I know there have to be grease zircs somewhere on this thing, where are they all? I think i recall seeing one on the gimball housing(is that for the the ring bearing??) My big gun is loaded valvoline synthetic automotive bearing grease, my little one loaded with quicksilver marine grease that comes with the winterization kits gander mtn sells... Which gun should i use, and how much grease do i give it?? Are there any others??

2. The bellows scares the crap outta me. Currently i have no groaning, no apparent leaking, and the boat goes like hell(50 mph, little more if i'm with the wind) so i don't think there are any issues, but i am starting to see what i can only call "spider lines" in the lower part of the bellows(the part stretched when the drive is in the fully up position). I think the bellows is prob original, and seems to be in otherwise good shape. I thought i might pro-actively replace it in the fall, along with the stern drive water pump(though the engine temp is fine, i figure i ought do it seeing as how i'm breaking the seal anyways on the gimbal housing)

Any other suggestions on things i should look over would be great. Here's what i've done so far
-new plugs, wires, cap, rotor; timing check(ok)
-carb cleaner in gas
-oil change
-new fuel filters (water sep and particle)

As always TIA for the replies

--chris"
 
"1. About a half dozen (di

"1. About a half dozen (did not count) zerk fittings on drive unit. Manual suggest grease about every three months. Use a marine rated grease on these since several will be in the water. Replace zerk valve if it does not appear to take grease readily. A couple of shots should suffice - I guess depending on size of the shot the gun delivers.
Power steering mechahism inside boat also has several zerk fittings. On these either use marine grease or a good universal.

You can use motor oil on all the steering cable connections. Good idea to spray carb cleaner on the choke butterfly hinge and linkages to make sure choke operates freely all season. Also clean the flame arrester - spraying with carb cleaner or soaking in kerosene works well. Dry before reinstalling.

2. Bellows condition... The low exhaust bellows and the shift cable bellows are about the only ones you can see well enough to inspect from beneath. If no water leaks into hull, shift cable and u-joint bellows will be intact. U-joint bellows is very durable and at that age should be useful for a few more years. Shift cable bellows (thin material) can last from a few months to several years, depending on muskrat population in your area and general luck. Exhaust bellows tears do not cause water leaks into boat, and could be left off. If you decide to replace exhaust bellows only, it can be replaced with an exhaust "tube" which does not require dropping drive unit to install."
 
"Nice description David.

"Nice description David.

Just to add to his; Check all SS grounding wires inside/outside of the OD; OD zerks usually have small black nipple covers. Lube the gimbal bearing while idling to disperse the lube, lube the engine coupler shaft zerk w/a few squirts, same for the power steering ram, same for both trim pucks (I prefer 2-4-C on the pucks since it's lighter).

After cleaning carb: squirt a very light elect. motor oil on carb's shaft bushings and linkages including all carb cable connections and also shift linkages. Lightly oil (engine oil works) or spray lithium w/teflon grease on steering pivot points inside boat.

Use the Merc. grease on them all sparingly.

Bellows: seeing dry rot cracking and letting them go until fall is a lottery; not many folks win.

"Don't put off until tomorrow that which you can do today." (author unknown) You may be 10 miles from the dock when the U-joint bellows splits and not notice the bilge has 100 gals. of water in it until the boat loses power due to the extra weight and then your bilge pump either fails or can't keep up w/the incoming water--Titanic!
uhoh.gif
"
 
"Thanks guys, its obvious that

"Thanks guys, its obvious that the tiny cracks i see are in the exhaust bellows(to me they more like stress cracks than dry-rot). The shift bellows looks really good, almost new, IIRC. Is there any way i can inspect my drive bellows to see how they look, or do i have to take the whole thing apart? Thanks again for the replies

--chris"
 
Turn the OD far to port and in

Turn the OD far to port and inspect then far to starboard and repeat. Tilt up also. Use a bright flashlight and mirror on a rod to view it.
 
"Guys--
I took a look last

"Guys--
I took a look last night and found 3 zircs; one on each each of the gimbal ring by the trim switch/sender, and one on the housing(which is the on i thought i saw) which i assume is the gimbal bearing one. I made a note on my spring startup list to look for the others, and will inpsect the bellows then. thanks again

--chris"
 
"Chris:

Was there a zerk on

"Chris:

Was there a zerk on the starboard side of the lower bell hsg. pivot at 5 o'clock, kind of hidden from view since it sits in an indentation?

Mine is a 1987 Alpha I and has a zerk at 12 o'clock and 5 o'clock for the pivots, 3 o'clock for the gimbal bearing and both trim pucks. I use Merc. 2-4-C lube on all but the gimbal bearing; I use white lithium for it."
 
"Guy--
Ill check it in the

"Guy--
Ill check it in the next few days I believe i only saw one at each trim puck (9 and 3) and then one on the housing strbrd side up tight to the hull(for what looks like the goimbal, as i see a "tube" extruded into the housing running into the center) i'll report back. Thanks again!

--chris"
 
"Chris:

When looking toward

"Chris:

When looking towards the stern, let's think of it as if you are looking at the edge of a clock on its back and you are standing at 6 o'clock by the prop. The center of the clock is the OD's vertical shaft. The gimbal zerk fitting is now at 2 o'clock. The bottom Pivot Pin Zerk (PPZ) fitting would be at 3 o'clock while the top PPZ would be at 12 o'clock."
 
"Thanks Guy, i'll get out

"Thanks Guy, i'll get out and map mine in the next couple of days, it's supposed to rain here tomorrow so it may take me a bit, but with all the info i have gotten from this thread i think i'll get'm ;). thanks again!

-chris"
 
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