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Motor wont crank

D

dawgs

Regular Contributor
well i ju8st replaced the fuel

well i ju8st replaced the fuel tank...put back the CC...hooked up all the wires and harness...now the motor(1986 150hp) wont crank. battery is fine.. radio works...fishfinder works...horn works..but no crank. what could it be? how do i troubleshoot this?

and yes it was in neutral i think....unless i messed up the cables?
 
on my evinrude control I have

on my evinrude control I have a warmup lever and if it isn't in the proper position it won't crank....make sure your adjustments are correct on ALL of your cables.....
 
"Warm up lever is not connecte

"Warm up lever is not connected top the NSIG switch in the box.
Start by testing with a cable from Battery+ at the solenoid to the small pin on solenoid where the yellow/red is attached. Starter should kick in. If not a ground error or defective relay.
Take a volt meter and check that You have 12 Volts at the ign switch, and get 12 out from where the yellow/red is attached at the switch when in start pos.
If that is ok, test that You get 12 Volt to the yellow/red at relay when in start pos.
If ok at ign switch but not at relay, dismantle control and check the NSIG switch."
 
No Start In Gear. Prevents sta

No Start In Gear. Prevents starter to be engaged if remote is in forward or reverse gear.
Pull-rope engines have a similar mechanical device blocking the rope pulley.
 
"Either measure from yellow/re

"Either measure from yellow/red from ign switc and out from NSIG switch, or You may try to wiggle the shift handle and see if starter gets engaged. Simple OHM measuring."
 
morten you lost me with the me

morten you lost me with the measuring. i just hel the key in the start position and wiggles the handle....no good. what does this switch look like and where is it? and can it be by passed just to see it thats the prob?
 
ok when i run a + from the

ok when i run a + from the battery to the starter is cranks.....when i run that same + from the battery to the solenoid it does not crank...now what? bad solenoid? wouldnt a bad solenoid click at least?
 
"oh and i found the nsig switc

"oh and i found the nsig switch. its cracked a little but i dont think its broke. anyway i took it out. where can i get a new one? and if i jump the 2 wires that were connected to it, it should act like the motor is in neutral right?
(just for testing purposes)"
 
"Bad solenoid doesn't alwa

"Bad solenoid doesn't always click......however, if there is something wrong with your ignition switch it would act like a bad solenoid also...just a thought to look into. I have no idea about the nsig switch. I purchased a book that covers your motor I will look at it in about 2 hours if no one else answers before then."
 
ok this is what i did....i use

ok this is what i did....i used a tester connected to the neg on the batt....i touched both connections on the solenoid (one at a time) whil a friend turned the key. i have power to both connections of the solenoid at the on position and the start position of the ignition.

does that seem correct?
 
"have you tried jumping straig

"have you tried jumping straight accross the solenoid yet? According to the book, there isn't much to the ignition system at all....just like an old ford car!"
 
I have the book open....if you

I have the book open....if you want to call on the phone we can read through the book that way. I have unlimited long distance on my phone so if you want I can call you too if that will help.
 
You can NOT use an automotive

You can NOT use an automotive solenoid though. the internal wiring is different according to the book...
 
paul id love to call but i hav

paul id love to call but i have one eye on the baby and all she wants to do is run. when you say jump straight accross what do you mean? i jumped the large terminal with the smaller terminal on either side and nothing
 
That's what I meant.....ac

That's what I meant.....according to the electrical drawing in my seloc book that would be the culprit then. Assuming that the ignition switch itself is working and the ground to the solenoid is o.k. There is a ground on the starter and on the solenoid....both are black wires. The Yellow/Red wire on the solenoid is 12v from the ignition. Have you checked the voltage at that wire with the ignition switch turned in the "start" position?
 
you mean remove the wire from

you mean remove the wire from the solenoid turn the key "cranking" and test the wire itself? if it has power then what? if it doesnt have power then what?
 
"if you're getting 12v at

"if you're getting 12v at the wire, then the ignition switch is good....if no voltage with the key turned on, then we can assume there is an ignition switch or neutral safety switch problem. We know the starter works because you were able to crank it directly through the starter."
 
all i have is a circuit tester

all i have is a circuit tester. i can tell if its hot but not how hot. do i need to measure the actual voltage?
 
"check to see if it is hot fir

"check to see if it is hot first....the book says it needs 12V...it could have a short that doesn't allow FULL power, but lets rule out whether its hot first..."
 
ok so just to be clear. i re

ok so just to be clear. i remove wire turn the key to "start" and test the yellow wire correct? if so ill talk to you all in the AM

thanks
 
"I do not quite understand wha

"I do not quite understand what makes this so difficult.
The starter circuit is just a loop with: Ign switch -NSIG - Relay - Starter.
You may start in either end to test.
1: Do You have 12 Volt IN to starter switch?
If not check fuse and cable connections)
2: Do You have 12Volt out from switch on red/yellow when switch is in start? If not switch is defective.
3: Do You have 12 Volt OUT from NSIG when switch is in start? If not NSIG is defective.
4: Do You have 12 Volt in to relay (yellow/red) when switch is in start? If not cable failure from control to engine, most likely multi contact in harness.
5: Does relay 'click' when switch is in start and gives 12 Volts out on 'big' red to starter? If not relay is defective or bad ground.
6: If taking a battery jump cable from B+ battery to starter does starter turn? If not starter defective or poor ground.
NOTE: Use a digital voltmeter and note all readings made. Start from '1' and work through. Be systematic and focused, don't jump around. If voltage drops below 10,5 Volts anywhere when switch is in 'start' it may indicate either bad B+, bad Ground, shorted starter or weak battery! Too low voltage may not activate relay and starter."
 
Thank you Morten for your exte

Thank you Morten for your extensive post of steps to use. This will save time and allow our friend to get this completed correctly.
 
ok i dont have a voltage meter

ok i dont have a voltage meter but i do have a tester and this is what i have. when i take the smaller hot wire off the solenoid and test it when in "start" position i get the tester to light up. so i replaced the solenoid with a brand new one. still nothing can it be a bad ground somewhere? if so how do i determin this?
 
"I would suggest You invest in

"I would suggest You invest in a digital multimeter, cost less than replacing non-faulty parts and makes fault finding much easier.
Happy boating."
 
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