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Rodbs 10G weight difference on 94 Evinrude 150

E

ericv

Member
"I'm rebuilding my 1994 15

"I'm rebuilding my 1994 150 Evinrude (E150GLERV), and two of the rods I have are abut 10grams lighter than the rest. Is this common? Is this a problem?"
 
"how are you weighing your rod

"how are you weighing your rods? an internal combustion engine will allow for a percentage of weight difference....however, you may have a problem with the internal balancing if you didn't mark which cylinder that each rod came out of......"
 
"I'm weighing them whole.

"I'm weighing them whole. (big ends have about 60% of the xtra weight on the heavier rods)

I'm rebuilding the engine, all of the rods are new. There's not enough metal on these rod to take off (I think) to bring the weights close to equal, although I can match the light rods with the heaver pistons, but I'll probably just get two rods that are heavier, then balance the lot of them to the lightest of the 'heavier'four i have.

I was just curious for there to be such a large weight difference in rods of the same part number."
 
"O.K.

The answer is yes....

"O.K.

The answer is yes.....I have seen as much as a 20gram difference in rods, crankshafts, pistons, etc... Matching your rod with a piston to come up with an average weight is the best option. Then have them balanced to match. There are many different ways to match the weight to include overgrind to recieve a different size bearing on each rod if need be so that all will match precisely. If you're willing to spend the money to have them matched to this extreme than you will be happier with your rebuild in the long run. However, this isn't that important for daily running engines. You can bet that racing applications will be matched to that extreme. Have fun.

Paul"
 
"Paul , are you sure you can g

"Paul , are you sure you can get different bearings for one of these motors ( other than factory standard )let me know a scource as I would like to order some."
 
I know for a fact that I can h

I know for a fact that I can have bearings made to suit my needs at Whissler Bearing here in Colorado springs. Perhaps you should research your information a little further....most machine shops that build high performance engines of any type should be able to do the same.
 
"You have not stated the reaso

"You have not stated the reason for Your rebuild.
Unless the reason looks to be damages on bearings/bearing surfaces caused anything else than lack of lubrication, I would not take to much notice. There is no reason to believe that the factory would install/sell rods outside their own factory tolerance demand, and You will probably not be the only one.I take it they are original. Resize big or small end to compensate weight, then have a special bearing 'manufactured', will even mean You will have to grind the shaft and /or get a new wrist-pin to match.
I would just assemble and run."
 
"The engine failed due due to

"The engine failed due due to mutliple reason, and had a poor rebuild. Atleast two of the rods have damadge due to debris. The port bank was lean, so it ate all three port pistons."
 
The most common reasons for re

The most common reasons for rebuilds to 'fail' is that the original cause of failure has not been found and corrected.
 
"The port high speed jets were

"The port high speed jets were clogged, and the fuel system was not maintenanced (cracked fuel lines, cracked oil lines, filter clogged). The engine ran when I got it, but barely, and on four cylinders. I purchased the boat knowing the engine was finished. Several of the rods have chatter marks on the bearings, so they are useless. The replacement rods, and several of the rods already in the engine, have a fairly large range in weight, as much as 20grams."
 
I've seen the 20 gram diff

I've seen the 20 gram differance as stated before....You can do as Morten suggested and just re-install and run it. Sounds like the original owner didn't maintanance it very well at all. Sounds like oil failure that caused bearing failure and nuclear reactions all together. If the cylinder walls are O.K. a basic hone job would be sufficient and rering job with the new rods. As long as you match rods with pistons to get the weight difference to a minimum you'll be o.k. Keep us updated.

Paul
 
"I have taken the sleeves out

"I have taken the sleeves out to .020, balanced all the pistons to the lightest one, New .020 pistons, new bearings (metal from the detonated pistons was all over the place), and am replacing all the fuel line, cleaning the tank etc. I also added a 10 micron fuel filter. Hopefully once all my parts have trickled in I can go ahead and assemble. Still torn on the rods, I wouldn't build a small block ford with that much variance between weight. I'll get them close by working on what's left of the mold marks.

Ironically, the only bearing failure I noted was rod chatter marks, but no real 'failure'. Luckily, the crank survived.

I'm rebuilding the carbs, rejetting one step richer, putting in Boyesen reeds. That is about it."
 
"u might,wanna hold off on the

"u might,wanna hold off on the reeds.....i have'nt inst a set in 20 yrs.....but......i understand,once u get a spitback.....and u will......they r trash,....and back in u go...on the plus side,..i hear they do give smoother idle...i just would'nt want to go back in every mon morn.!....just a few thoughts from other sites for u."
 
"I've only used the boysen

"I've only used the boysen reeds on small outboards, 9.9-15hp, and they worked really well, i was replacing the stock becuase they were installed improperly and bent. (whoever built this engine knew even less than i do)

I've read about the 'sneeze' destroying them. Unfortunately i already ordered the vavles. I hope they work ok."
 
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