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1989 Johnson Start Problem

M

mr_johnson

Regular Contributor
"Team,

After initial cranki

"Team,

After initial cranking (and not starting), donk will not crank now.

I hear a low pitch grinding noise in the ignition box.

Battery is fully charged and have checked/cleaned battery terminals.

Why won't this donk crank over now?

Cam"
 
"Check all battery and cable c

"Check all battery and cable connections.
If You have a multy meeter: measure output from starter solenoid relative to output from battery/in-put solenoid.
If You have a set of jumper cables, try to the the ground to starter ground and the pos directly to the starter pos. (where cable comes from starter solenoid)."
 
I got it started again.

I d

I got it started again.

I disconnected the battery terminals and then re-connected. Donk started then.

Why is it that this happens?

The terminals are clean and all but why does it need the terminals to be disconnected and then re-connected to make things happen?

How do i check for loose/defective safety switch?

Cam
 
"It happens as there is not en

"It happens as there is not enough clean contact surface area between battery and cable. As amp's are drawn a small arch occur. This will again burn an area that will give even less contact.
To avoid, be sure the cone of the connector properly matches the cone on the battery pole or if flat surface connection, both surfaces must be in total contact.
What You are experiencing is nothing new, in fact quite common reason of loss of AMP's to starter or other power consuming app's. It might be on battery, corrosion on screw-threads for ground cables, corrosion/burn on contact surfaces in main switch and relays."
 
Thanks Moreton.

Does the ac

Thanks Moreton.

Does the act of simply removing and re-applying terminal connection create a new fresh contact surface?

Interesting - this may also be reason why I am not starting as well as I could...

On my battery I have two terminals for each +/-.

I have a fat knob terminal about 25-30mm dimeter and then a 10 mm threaded stud - for each +/-.

I am using the studded terminal as my crank source.

I am thinking of using the fatter 30mm surface area for connecting the cables - as it does have a more larger - more uniform surface area to allow that clean surface to allow DC power to transmit - I feel.

What sort of terminal then can i use to allow my 12mm hole on each battery cable to connect to the fatter knob connection on the battery?

Cam
 
"The more contact surface, the

"The more contact surface, the less risk of problems. I would guess the smaller 10mm are intended for consumption and the bigger ones for starter.
Buy a battery terminal made of lead or bronze that either has a stud and wing-nut that fits the cable, or a decent clamp that You use straight on the cable. Stay away from the light-weight cheap battery connectors. In general the lighter weight, the less conductivity."
 
Excellent. Another key learni

Excellent. Another key learning!

Will do that ASAP. What are these specific bettery terminals claled? What is a brand of terminal you recommend?

Would you think this non-satisfactory conenction may also be attributing to my starting issues?

Cam
 
"Use any brand as long as they

"Use any brand as long as they are 'good' ones. Most auto part stores carries a variety.
It may have affected the choke/primer solenoid if voltage during cranking has dropped down too far for it to operate, or/and cranking speed has been too low."
 
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