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Fuel Connector 1989 Johnson 110HP

mr_johnson

Regular Contributor
"Hi Team.

I have just repla


"Hi Team.

I have just replaced the fuel connector on my donk. It was the original connector. I replaced this item because I am wanting to ensure I have best possible fuel flow.

part number is 3296.

What impacts will this part have on fuel flow/supply if it is old/worn? Waht can break down on this part anyway?

I am having cold start issues - will not start first up and needs alot of cranking. After the first start and run for a few mins - all OK.

yes, battery is fully charged.

Thoughts?

Cameron"
 
"That part has nothing to do w

"That part has nothing to do with starting.Look at / check out the injection primer do you hear a click when key is pushed in?.Put it in the manual position, then prime the bulb,back to run position , crank it over."
 
"Thansk London Marine.

Ok -


"Thansk London Marine.

Ok - Ignoring my cold start issues on this part -is there any advantage of replacing a 20 year old fuel connector? If so, waht?

Now, starting - what is the injection primer? Where is it located? Is this item that re coloured plastic key on top of block?

Cam"
 
Logic??? How do you know it is

Logic??? How do you know it is working??????If it starts using the manual method than you could conclude that electrically it is not working!!!!!!Now do you hear a click when you push the key in????
 
yes - i hear a click when key

yes - i hear a click when key is pushed in.

Unable to start - at moment - 11pm at night and may wake neibours :-((

how does this relate to non-starting on cold cranking?

Cam
 
THIS UNIT REPLACES THE CHOKE F

THIS UNIT REPLACES THE CHOKE FLAPPERS OF THE OLD DAYS! Now remove the small hose at the UPPER carburetor and prime the bulb. Push the key in and you should see a spray of fuel coming out of the small hose.If it works then your starting problem is not a fuel issue!Simple
 
Donk = The act of adding a Bot

Donk = The act of adding a Bottle cap during the brewing process. Also a style of house music!! An unskilled card player. A type of wine. And most importantly relevant to this post it is also known in some countries as an ENGINE!!!
 
"Hmmm.... So, on my last boat

"Hmmm.... So, on my last boat of many years ago, since the engine was secured properly, my donk didn't dunk?(grin). Couldn't resist. A new one on me, never heard of a donk.

On a serious note pertaining to this 1989 110hp Johnson..... Be advised that holding the ignition switch in the start position and keeping the electric starter engaged over a twenty (20) second period WILL RESULT }in having the starter's armature MELT LEAD at the commutator (Brush Area) which will effectively destroy the starter.

The engine should start and run within six (6) revolutions. Failure to do so would be due to:

Fouled carburetors, faulty fuel primer solenoid, weak ignition, poor compression, or slow cranking speed.

Primer solenoid test: Remove one primer outlet hose at the carburetor, or in some cases at the intake manifold. Pump the fuel primer bulb up hard. Engine not running... turn the key to the ON position and push it in. If fuel shoots out that small hose, the primer solenoid is operational.

Spark test: Remove all spark plugs. Rig a spark tester whereas you can set a gap of 7/16". Crank the engine over. The spark shouild jump that 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! A tester can be made cheaply as follows.

(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas the!y could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:


..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

When time permits, visit my store at: stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store

Cranking speed: The ignition on that model has what is called Magneto Capacitance Discharge ignition and is self contained, meaning it does not derive its power from battery voltage. It's power is derived from the flywheel magnets rotating around the stator windings in the green component under the flywheel. The engine must crank over at least 300 rpms in order for the stator to deliver approximately 300 AC volts to the powerpack capacitor. Anything less results in weak or no ignition.

Also, if that stator is cracked and/or leaking a substance down on the timer base and powerhead, the same faulty ignition situation will exist even though the cranking speed is correct. This problem one can check visually.

Compression: Remove ALL spak plugs then check with a proper tester. What are the individual readings?

Fouled carburetor(s): Remove the bottom side float chamber plug screws. If any of them are discolored, assume that a fouled carburetor condition exists. In which case, remove, clean, and rebuild all of them. NOTE... An engine that has been sitting for a few months each year will absolutely develop fouled carburetors at some point in time.

Let us know what you find."
 
Thanks boys.

I just woke up


Thanks boys.

I just woke up and read these lovely posts.

Much appreciated.

Will investigate all of the baove and report back.

Cameron
 
"Also, from original question.

"Also, from original question.

What is the advantage of replacing the fuel connector on my donk?

Cam"
 
Probably none.It has nothing t

Probably none.It has nothing to do with starting.Which part did you replace -- motor or hose connecter??.
 
"Regardless of whether it was

"Regardless of whether it was the male or female connector, unless the original was leaking, there was no advantage."
 
Normally if they leak fuel out

Normally if they leak fuel out they most certainly leak air in!
On all engines running fixed tank installation I always removed the quick connector and ran the fuel hose straight onto the VRO.
 
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