"The pulse limiter is simply a
"The pulse limiter is simply a safety device to interrupt the crankcase pulse to eliminate any danger of internal flame reaching the VRO pump. It is normal that air flow is able to travel in both directions thru it.
If the VRO failed, damage throughout the powerhead should have occurred as the mixture would be delivered to all of the carburetors.
Piston damage to one cylinder is usually caused by a fouled carburetor which would result in having that cylinder run lean, OR weak erratic ignition on that cylinder, OR a head gasket that is ever so slightly failing which would allow minute amounts of water enter that cylinder.
However, the following may be of interest to you.
(VRO Changeover Judgement Call)
(J. Reeves)
The VROs first came out in 1984 and have been upgraded quite a few times. In my opinion, back around 1988, they had perfected them but I think that they were upgraded even more since then. As long as the warning system is operating as it should, I feel quite at ease with them.
Some boaters have voiced their thoughts such as "What if that overpriced plastic horn should fail while I'm under way for some reason, and the VRO decides to fail five minutes later?" Obviously that would result in a big problem which really brings their fears into view.
The word "ease" is the key word though. If one has the slightest feeling of being ill at ease with that setup, then they should take the route they feel more at ease with. A judgement call each individual would need to make on their own.
When time permits, visit my store at:
http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store
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(VRO Pump Conversion To Straight Fuel Pump)
(J. Reeves)
You can convert the VRO pump into a straight fuel pump, eliminating the oil tank and VRO pump warning system, but retain the overheat warning setup by doing the following:
1 - Cut and plug the oil line at the engine so that the oil side of the VRO pump will not draw air into its system. Trace the wires from the back of the VRO to its rubber plug (electrical plug) and disconnect it.
2 - Trace the two wires from the oil tank to the engine, disconnect those two wires, then remove them and the oil tank.
3 - Mix the 50/1 oil in the proper amount with whatever quantity fuel you have. Disconnect the fuel line at the engine. Pump the fuel primer bulb until fuel exits that hose with the tint of whatever oil you used. Reconnect the fuel hose.
That's it. If you want to test the heat warning system to ease your mind, have the key in the on position, then ground out the tan heat sensor wire that you'll find protruding from the cylinder head. The warning horn should sound off.
When time permits, visit my store at:
http://stores.ebay.com/Evinrude-Johnson-Outboard-Parts-etc?refid=store"
