View Full Version : 1960 Evinrude 3 hp pump amp needle valves

07-13-2001, 12:50 PM
" 1). I tried to remove my lower unit (four bolts) to get access to check the impeller. While the outer components separate easily, I could not get the lower unit off the drive shaft, and didn't want to force things. Should it have come off or is there something I missed?

2). The impeller: From what I can see the only thing going upwards in this area is the drive shaft. Should there be tubing for the cooling water?
On the high and low speed needle valves: there's a rubber component that I can see deep in the recess (of both). Is that a simple o-ring that I could replace with common o-ring, or is it a special part? "

07-13-2001, 05:43 PM
"Bill..... The four (4) bolts are all the attach the lower unit to the exhaust housing. Possibly the upper driveshaft splines are caught in the crankshaft spline area.

There are no "O" Rings incorporated with the slow or high speed needle valves. There's a brass threaded lock nut that compresses a couple fiber packing washers where the needles insert into the face of the carburetor.

There is a copper water tube that inserts into a rubber grommet at the top of the water pump housing. Are you sure this is a 1960 3hp Evinrude?


07-14-2001, 12:57 PM
" JOE:
I did not apply force to lower unit after it dropped slightly. Was afraid I'd damage something but it could be the upper end is "snug" and would come free with little (and I mean LITTLE) persuasion (I don't want damage this little gem!). I'll await your guidance (MUCH APPRECIATED, by the way!).

I could not see anything "inside" except the driveshaft when I got the lower unit loosened. Later, I DID run the engine and could see water exiting the exhaust relief ports. She seems to be getting cooling water but, again, I want to be cautious.

The fiber packing washers: are those something I can buy "generically" or must they be special ones?

My research leads to me recognize this as 1960-vintage. Ser No. is 3034-11224 and it's marked as Evinrude "Lightwin". 3 HP.

New item: on the port side, bottom of engine cover, is a "water flush" port. How does that work? I ran it in a barrel of water and wonder how I could or should be using that "water flush"?

NOTE: I acquired an old Owners Manual, but its for models 3030 and 3031 ... lots of good relatable info, but no help on these questions or other technical stuff.

07-14-2001, 05:41 PM
"Bill... Yes, the 3034 = 1960. The manual 3030/31 = 1959 (pretty close). Dropping the lower unit, the water pump sits right atop that lower unit with the driveshaft going thru the center of it. There's nothing holding the lower unit except friction when you remove those four bolts.

That flushing screw you mentioned... when you remove it, you would be looking at the top exit area of the water tube that leads down to the water pump. Pressurizing that hole with water would force water backwards through the water pump, and normally through the powerhead. It's a way to clean out salt etc, not for running in a barrel etc. Personally I've never messed with it but now that you know what it's for, you can decide for yourself. From what you've said, it seems to be pumping water okay.

The carb packing washers are OMC part number #307583 and list for about .50 each. If you can't find any, contact me via my e-mail address as I have some left in stock.


Bill Kay
07-14-2001, 08:19 PM
Appreciate all the help. My objective is to use this 3 hp on a small skiff for the grandkids (my rig is too much for them at this point in their boating education).

Bill Kay
07-15-2001, 05:56 PM
" JOE:
With a little persuasion the lower unit came free and, sure as you said it would be, there IS the copper water tube!

I checked the impeller and it, and its housing, look in very good condition.

Reassembled it all and back in the water barrel for check-out. She started up and ran pretty well ... my next objective is to fine-tune the high and low ends.

The high needle valve runs best fully closed .. that don't sound "right". Everything has been cleaned and I tighened both needle valve packing nuts. Any recommendations on tuning her up?

07-15-2001, 11:44 PM
"Bill... When the engine continues running with the high speed jet fully closed, that indicates that the carburetor needs cleaning and rebuilding. What allows the engine to run with the valve closed is that although there is a body gasket between the float chamber and the upper body, there is also a round thick cork gasket seal at the brass high speed nozzle area between the float chamber & the upper body. The nozzle is the rather large brass tube that runs up the center of the carb. If that cork seal is missing or is breaking up, fuel gets drawn up that nozzle direct from the float chamber without going past the H/S valve. So even when the needle valve is closed.... fuel is still gaining access to the engine.


Bill Kay
07-28-2001, 07:55 PM
" JOE:
Follow-on report- I rebuilt the carb using the kit (everything I wanted WAS in the kit!). I found several things in the rebuild: the hi and lo needlevalves were reversed; float valve gasket was missing (affected fuel flow); and nozzle gasket looked OK but apparently was leaking (as you suggested). Put her back together and she runs like a different engine! Great idle and high speeds compared to last session!

Thanks again, BILL "

Mark Carpenter
08-06-2003, 06:59 PM
" I am looking for a water pump and ignition coil set for an 1960 model Evinrude 3034 outboard. Can anyone please point me in the right direction?

Mark "